Monday, June 11, 2012

How to Create The Old Dude

This is one of my favorite makeups to do! The way to do it, is exactly quite opposite than you would do your beauty makeup. And the result is always quite impressive.

First when doing The Old Dude makeup, you need to decide how old your character is. It's very easy to go over-the-top with the makeup and the result can be way older that your character were supposed to look like.

Secondly, where is your Old Dude performing? Is it for a masquerade party, or for a stage? Stage on a small theatre where the crowd is really close, or is it a big stage with strong lights? The answer affects how strong of makeup and lines you need to do.

Also understand that the character's manners, clothing, accessories (glasses and hats can make a huge difference) and voice used all add to The Old Dude effect.

My Old Dude is made for the big stage and he is about 80 years old.

No need to use any makeup primers here - the uneven colors are only a positive thing when creating an old skin. 

Spread some pale foundation lightly and starting from the nose, spreading towards the ears. The purpose is not to create an even skin and cover, just to make some sickly looking paleness. Add it also to the lips. Ask your model to wrinkle his/her lips. Very kissable aren't they?

Let's continue with the shading. 

Use light brown, cold shaded and matt eyeshadow. (e.g., Make Up Store Smog).
Shade the inside corners of the eyes. This makes the eyes more boney. The eye bones seem to look deeper, like holes. Continue the color until the iris of the eye and then pull the color downwards, but towards the outside corner of the eye. Color also the inside corner of the eyelid. 

Shade the bridge of the nose until the nostrils. Make the nose more appealing by following more gently  around the nostrils. Smooth the color toward the ears. 

Create the boney face by shading under the cheekbone, beginning from the ear. A blush brush made from real fur is a good size for this. Continue the color a bit over the cheekbone and then pull the shading downward. Continue the shade also on the neck. This line doesn't need to be completely symmetrical and straight, like the old people skin usually is not. 

Shade the temples.

Use for highlighting a white or vanilla matt eyeshadow:

Highlight the eyelid area next to the eye shading, that is not yet colored. So fill the eyebrow bone and the outside corner of the eyelid with the light eyeshadow. This makes the effect of baggy eyelids. Smooth the line between colors.

Color the top of the nose, also the tip of the nose.

Then the forehead.

And the chin.

Also highlight the cheekbones next to he shading. Just follow with the white color the same line as with shading, but just above it. 
Add some light eyeshadow on jawbones, continue to the neck. This creates a bit of a double chin! Again, smooth the lines between colors. 

Now is time for the lines and wrinkles. 

If you want to create very strong lines or make it just last better, base every wrinkle with a brown kajal pen.

Ask your model to furrow the eyebrows. Draw with the same cold light brown eyeshadow the longitudinal lines between eyebrows - that makes you look more strict. Smooth the lines a bit towards the ears. Fill the area between the lines and some part next to the faded wrinkle with the same vanilla matt eyeshadow. 

Now tell something really surprising to your model, like you haven't drunk any alcohol during last four days, or that yesterday you cleaned your apartment and see the forehead lines to be revealed! The result can easily become unnatural. Don't draw all-forehead long and symmetrical lines (mine are just in the edge to be a bit weird looking!). Fill below the line with the vanilla eyeshadow. Smooth the line a bit also upwards. By making some parts of the lines a bit stronger and wider, you make it more natural; they are just deeper parts of the wrinkle.

Now ask your model to smile. You find the mouth wrinkles, that leaves from the nose towards the neck (This is why Posh Spice avoided smiling). Draw these wrinkles with that cold brown eyeshadow and they can be drawn quite strong and deep. Leave the other side shorter to create some asymmetry. Blend towards the ears. 

Deepen the fulcrum line that connects the nose and the mouth together. Soften the line a bit towards both ears. Around the smoothed color, put some vanilla eyeshadow.

Emphasize the chin by drawing a line around it, making it look like a ball. Smooth the line towards the ears. Create the Ridge Forrester chin dimple just by drawing a short line between the chin. Soften a bit towards the ears.

Add a super short line from the corners of the mouth downwards. Smooth towards the ears, add a vanilla line below it.

Let's assume that your character had a happy life full of laughter. We need people to know that, to reveal this, draw the thin lines from the eye corner - the ones that looks like crow's feet (this is why Posh Spice avoided laughing).

Your model has shiny McDreamy hair? Na-aaa, doesn't sound like The Old Dude material. 
Swirl a eyelash brush into moist white aqua color (e.g., from Kryolan). My model has brown hair, but if your model has more blonde hair, the grey aqua color works well. Drag the brush through the hair and sideburns. Also, dry shampoo gives a good effect.

Brush the eyeshadow downwards and also give them some grey charisma.

If your model has a beard or moustache (if a girl, take her to a professional waxer.), color it carefully with white/grey aqua color.

Your model has partied all night yesterday? Brilliant! Take some warm shaded violet or auberge colored matte eyeshadow and make the eye bags even more deep. Draw the lines of the eye bags as low as you dare to make your character more exhausted looking. Make the color most strong right next to the inside eye corner. Smooth the color widely upwards, towards the eye. Add some white/vanilla between the line and the nose to create some puffiness and to make the bags look deeper.

If your character used to live for parties and liked to take more than one glass of red wine a night, his/her skin needs some couperose. Use a sponge that looks like a hedgehog, called stubble sponge, and tap with it carefully red colored supra color (e.g., Kryolan) on top of the nose and to the cheeks and around the nostrils.

Sponge to create some couperose

Create also some brown spots with the same hedgehog sponge to random places. Add more if she/he used to be a hippie living on a beach and already at the age of 30 looked like a sultan.

And my personal favorite: Veins! Just look carefully, your model has them somewhere in his/her face. Make them more appealing with a blue eyeshadow with a real-fur brush.


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