Monday, May 28, 2012

How to Create The Mad Hatter

This Mad Hatter here is very inspired by Tim Burton's version of Alice in Wonderland. What can I say, since as a 6-year-old I saw Cry Baby for the first time, I always fall in love with Johnny Depp's characters. The makeup itself isn't very complicated, just a lovely play with the colors and bone structure, but if you decide to prepare the eyebrows from the scratch, it will take.. a bit longer. The side effects, besides the bloody tired eyes, is the shoulder pain, cramps in the fingers, total loss of your nerves, ugly language use and a bunch of new grey hair in your head. But let's face it, how cool it is to prepare the face hair or wigs on your own, using the real hair?

Picture to help creating the bone structure

But let's begin with the makeup. 

I usually like to begin the makeup from the eyes, therefore all the escaped eyeshadows on the cheeks don't ruin the rest of your makeup. Just swipe them off with a gentle makeup cleansing wipe after you are done with the eyes.

Picture to help show the eye -and the lip makeup

Prepare the eyes, also the lower eyelid, with the eye primer and powder lightly, but evenly (I like to use Makeup Store's reflex cover). Next tap and spread the light blue eyeshadow with a glow ( e.g., Make Up Store's Wave) on the eyelids, until the upper crease in the eyelid. Then take a glowing light green eyeshadow (e.g., Make Up Store Eclipse) and spread it from the blue eyeshadow just until the eyebrows. A real fur brush is perfect for powdery products.

Next, color the lower eyelids with a fuchsia eyeshadow or a blush (e.g., Make Up Store's Frozen Daiquiri blush). Create some shape in the eye by increasing the width of the color to the corner of the eyes. Continue the delicious fuchsia towards the eyebrows. By swirling the round shaped real-fur brush on the eyeshadows, you blend the colors well together and it makes the edges of the colors softer.

Curl the eyelashes and add thickly a white mascara. Color the inside lids with a cold red lip pencil (e.g., Make Up Store's Russian)

Wipe the possible spread eyeshadows and color the face with a white supra color using a makeup sponge. Don't make the base too thick, but make sure it covers enough. If the supra color feels too thick, mix it with a drop of transparent makeup base serum. Tap the color also on the lips. Powder with transparent powder.

Create some strong structure to the face with a light purple eyeshadow or a blush. Lovely color, isn't it? Reminds me of a My Little Pony's vomit.
Shade the edges of bridge of the nose just until the nostrils. Fade the color well towards the ears.
Also shade the inside corner's of the eyes and fade the color towards the eyelids. Connect the color with the shading of the nose.
Next create some sharp cheek bones. Follow with the line of a cheek bone from the ear to the point where the cheek bone ends (fade the color upwards) and pull the color downwards. (fade the color towards the ears) This helps to create some manly shape to the face!
Next to the shades, there is always the highlight. Swirl some glowing white highlight color on top of the cheek bones, on the chin, in the middle of the forehead and on top of the nose.

Speaking if the manly things, line the lips with a cold pink lip pencil. (You can use the same as in the inside eyelids) Shape the lips less feminine by hiding and filling the cupids bow, you can also line the lips a slight smaller, depending on your models mouth. Color the mouth with a cold pink lipstick.

How about that cute little gab between the front teeth? For example, there is Grimas 's black Tooth Enamel.
Roll your upper lip up and look like a squirrel. Dry your front teeth with a paper. Swipe the brush between the teeth. (The brush is the same kind as in nail polish bottles.) Be careful with the gums! The best part? The best way to remove the color is with alcohol. I'm sure my The Hatter model remembers the 80% alcohol that I used to remove the gab.

VoilĂ ! And finally..

How to Prepare the Eyebrows:

You will need:
- Lace (like ballerinas use in their tutus)
- Special wig sewing needle
- Real hair (but please don't cut it from your friend's head.)
- Polystyrene head
- Pins
- Good light!

Start by drawing on a strong paper the shape of the eyebrows. Cut it off. (really.) Make sure they are a perfect size and shaped by fitting the paper model on your model's face.

Attach the paper on the polystyrene head with a glue or pins. Cut a small size of the lace and attach it well and firmly, slightly stretching, with the pins. Attach it in a way, that it stretches crossways.

Take a small part of your real hair and moist it with a spray bottle. The hair is curly so you can brush it a bit straighter.

How to Make a Knot:

I prefer to sew placing the polystyrene head between my legs (because I am a pervert) and throw my legs on a high table or chair. Trust me, the comfortable position is important in this business. Also the sips of whiskey helps.

Start from the inside corner of the eyebrow and progress from up to down, so that the ready knots will no be on the way. Always pull the knot to the direction where you want the hair to be heading to.

Notice: The paper under the tulle is just there to show the formwork of the eyebrows. No need to stick the needle through the paper too.

Also notice, there is no need to stick the needle through every single lace hole. The result would be quite furry.

So. Form a ring for a small part of the moist hair and hold it firmly between your thumb and index finger. Keep 1-3 hair in front, ready to be catch. Slip the needle through the one hole of the tulle. Take those 1-3 hair on the needle, pull them through the lace. Pull the hairs just a bit upwards so that you can with the same motion grab the rest of the 1-3 pieces of the hair through the loop. Pull the knot upwards, so to the direction you want the hair be heading to. Pull the knot tight, but don't break the hair .

The knot should look pretty and small, not like a tangle. Make sure that the knots on the lower edge of the eyebrows are in straight line.

And always think the direction you want the hair to stick out.

Ready, all the hair has been knitted? Awesome.

Cut the eyebrows for the suitable length.

Now you can color the hair the way you want to. My Hatter has orange eyebrows, that I colored with orange aqua color (e.g., from Kryolan). Originally my hair was grey. Dying with aqua color has one down side, the color falls out easily and with that can ruin your makeup! Try to use enough color during the first time of the coloring and let it dry well. But because we are talking about the real hair, you can of course use for example spray colors.

Last step. Cut the lace smaller, just next to the hair line, two-three rows of the lace holes sounds good security to me.

Placing the eyebrows depends how your model's own eyebrows are. If they are thin and light colored, just brush them upwards and tap and spread the skin glue/Mastix/Spirit Gum (e.g., from Kryolan) on them.
If your model has strong eyebrows, check here how to make them less appearing.

Press the sewed eyebrows on the glue and be specially exact with the edges, that no lace sticks to the air.

Use some hair wax and hairspray to style the eyebrows.

Now go to some oldish charismatic man with an awesome hat and start a conversation with him just to wait for a perfect moment to steal his awesome hat for your Mad Hatter. (NEVER done it myself, never.)

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