Saturday, May 19, 2012

How to Create The Corpse Bride

On this makeup you will learn how to attach the ready-made-wound pieces and how to hide the eyebrows!

This makeup is lovely to do, because it's both, beauty and theatre makeup. And because you couldn't describe Emily as fresh and healthy looking role model, it doesn't matter if your model is dead tired and dying because of a hangover!

Let's start with hiding your models eyebrows. Brush the eyebrows upwards with an eyebrow brush. Then attach them in this position with a skin glue.

Take a yellow shaded concealer, meant for hiding red spots on a face, and tap the color on top of the up-pointing eyebrows.

The skin. Take a very, very pale foundation and mix it with a strong, cold shaded, highlight cream. 
Spread it to the whole skin. Hide the possible spots and red areas with a yellow shade concealer and smooth the yellowish color again with a foundation+highlight mix. (if you continue working with the powdery products, you can powder the whole face now lighlty with a transparent powder. If you use even the lightest powder that is still not transparent, don't do it. The result will be yellow. :O)

Now let's create those big, beautiful sad eyes! Prepare the eyelids for the eye shadow with an eye primer, also the lower eye lid. Powder it lightly, but evenly.
Spread the glowing light blue eyeshadow on the whole eyelid area with a brush made of real fur. Don't stop until the eyebrows, also cover them with the light blue eyeshadow. That is your makeup model's new eye socket.
Next take a darker blue eye shadow and create some volum in the eyes by adding the color on the outside corners of the eyes. Imagine the eye lid area being a lot bigger than you normally have. So add the dark blue eyeshadow from the eye lashes until on top of the hidden eyebrows (just the out corner of the eyelid.) Fade the color with a real fur brush (the round shaped eye shadow brush is really good for fading the colors) towards the center of the eye.
Next we create that horror character look to the eyes by adding the dark blue eyeshadow on the inside corner of the eyes, right next to nose until the hidden eyebrows. Fade the color with a real fur brush towards the center of the eye.

Emily is a little bit tired of not needing to sleep as  dead person, so she needs eye bags. Follow the line that you started next to the nose downwards, using a smaller real fur eyeshadow/eyeliner brush and a dark blue eyeshadow. Kind of circling the eyes with the eyeshadow. Blend the color upwards. See, this is more easier if your model already has eye bags on her own.

So now we should have lighter, glowing blue eyeshadow in the middle of the eye and darker blue areas  around the eye, right? This effect makes the eyes to pop out, rounder and bigger.
Next add the lighter blue eye shadow to the lower eyelid, following the eyelashes, but leave a little gap between the eyelashes and the blue color. Fill this gap with a white eyeshadow to make the eyes bigger. Add some darker blue shadow in the center of the lower eyelid to make the eyes more round.
Fill the inside eye lid with a white kajal (not with a glittery one, they are not meant to inside lids!)
Finish the eyes with curling the eyelashes with a Shu Uemura eyelash curler (buy them. Seriously.) on three parts of the eyelashes. Add a lot of black mascara, don't forget the lower eyelashes. 

Let's create very strong structure to the face. We want our Emily to have high cheek bones, so let's enchant them with a cold shaded, light brown eyeshadow. Use a big, real fur brush and start swiping the eyeshadow starting next to the ear and following the cheek bone. Don't spread the color further, than you model's eye irises are. Start the spreading gently, it's always easier to add color, than make it lighter. Fade the color upwards.
Next to shadow, you always need a highlight. So take a cold shaded, glowing highlight product and swirl it on top of the highest point of your model's cheekbones. 

Next we make her look a bit more dead, a little moldy. Take your ready-made wound, put it on the skin and powder the limits of the piece gently. Now take the ready-made piece away and fill the are with a face glue. Don't cross the powder area!

Now press the ready-made piece gently on top of the glue. And remove. Why? This makes the glue stronger and the piece attaches better. Now on the third time you can finally press the piece to the skin. For good

Take just a tiny bit of skin wax with your spatula and put it on the edges of the ready-made-wound. Now you can smooth the edges of the piece and the skin with the skin wax.

Add one light layer of latex on top of the piece. Let it dry. Now depending how your wound looks like, you need to make it gross. In this case, Emily has started to mold from the face. Color the piece with a light blue supra color and smooth it well to the skin.

If your wound is not nasty looking enough, add some little pieces of cosmetic paper with a skin glue and color it with a greyish green eyeshadow or supra colors. Add some dark blue and black color in the roots of the cosmetic papers. 

Now take a dark brown, cold shaded kajal pen, eyebrow pencil or eyeliner, which ever you prefer and draw the new eyebrows. If you want your Emily to look more doll-like, draw them more round, like I did. If you prefer more devilish look, make them more straight and give them a little lift upwards in the beginning of the eyebrows. (Think of a face of wrinkling your forehead because of a devilish idea and at the same time lifting your eyebrows with an an astonishment.) 

And the last part, the lips. Draw the lines of the lips with a pink lip pencil. Start from the middle of the upper lip and go to towards the edges. Blend the color by coloring with the pencil almost the whole lip. Leave the center part of the lips pencil-free. Now take some a bit lighter pink lipstick and color your lips.

Now put some wedding dress on, knock on your new boyfriends door, wait until he opens and scream:
"I Dooooo!"

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